Natural materials include animal materials (wool, leather, silk and fur) and vegetable materials (cotton, rubber, linen and hemp).
Animal materials
Wool, for starters, can come from several different animals, including sheep, rabbit, alpaca and merino. The problems that are regularly encountered in these farms are first of all difficult conditions for the animals, including underfeeding and limited living space. Sheep are sometimes raised in countries that are too hot for their skin, which creates the risk of painful infections. Secondly, chemicals, such as chlorine, are used to treat the wool. These intoxicate human beings as well as the fauna and flora of the rivers. Finally, although wool fibers are naturally biodegradable, it undergoes many chemical treatments, which means that it will still contaminate the soil at the end of the circuit. We advise you to choose brands that are committed to the environment. The OA label (Orgin Assured) guarantees for example that the animal has been raised in an adapted environment and without bad treatment.
Secondly, leather, mostly cowhide (but also sheep, lamb, etc.), has a high social impact, as the workers who work on it are exposed to huge amounts of chemicals. The side effects are skin reactions as well as digestive and renal disorders. From an environmental point of view, leather working results in a lot of waste being dumped into rivers. The tanning of hides is also very toxic, since 80 to 90% of the hides and skins in the world are tanned with chromium, acids and salts, which will end up in nature sooner or later. Some brands show more transparency in their production systems, and color the leather with natural dyes made from, for example, bark, berries, in chromium-free baths or in broths made from fish skins, mushrooms, pineapple and other fruits. It can also be wise to choose clothes or shoes made from Made in Europe leather. Indeed, in Europe, there is legislation that obliges leather producers to respect a certain number of standards for the protection of animals and the environment. For your shoes, choose those bearing the European Ecolabel, or made of recycled materials.
Silk is produced by silkworms. In order to obtain the silk filaments, the cocoon farms undergo treatments. The filaments are then extracted before the worm has even become chrysalis (i.e. when it leaves its cocoon). The "peaceful silk" and the "Ahimsa silk" certify that the worm has been waited until it has become chrysalis before the silk is taken.
Fur is obtained mainly from rabbits and minks. These animals undergo merciless treatment in the farms. In addition, the environmental impact of fur processing is very high. It is therefore important to learn about animal welfare and to choose companies that treat animals properly and ensure that they die without suffering. A fur covered by the EPR system "Extended Producer Responsibility", will certify that the economic actors who market products that generate waste take charge of the management of the latter. It is also possible to ensure that the fur is a by-product, i.e. that the animal from which it comes was killed for the needs of another industry that does not use fur. A good solution is also to buy vintage or second-hand fur clothing. Opting for faux fur also has its risks. First, it is made from petroleum and will not degrade in the environment. It is also not necessarily produced in an ethical way. If you choose a faux fur, we advise you to choose one made of recycled polyester. It is best to avoid flash colors, as these are obtained from azo dyes that are responsible for certain cancers and environmental pollution. Check that the seams are solid and that it does not lose its hair (synonymous with low quality).
Vegetable materials
Among the vegetable materials, we find first of all cotton, which is a vegetable fiber surrounding the seeds of cotton trees.
Did you know that a quarter of the world's textile fibers come from cotton?
This culture requires a lot of water, sun and pesticides and therefore has a big impact on biodiversity. Pesticides are responsible for soil contamination and also present health risks for workers. Water consumption is also a problem, as it is a scarce resource in some cotton producing countries. Water from rivers, lakes and aquifers is diverted to irrigate fields. In 2005, the Aral Sea (a saltwater lake in Central Asia) lost ¾ of its surface area due to this practice. The remaining water is saltier, which has killed most of the life forms that were present there.
We advise you to choose organic cotton clothes. Organic cotton has the particularity of being cultivated without pesticides, insecticides, GMOs or chemical fertilizers. It is important to refer to certain labels to buy organic cotton clothing: the GOTS label (Global Organic Textile Standard), for example, which gives the "organic" certification to any textile product containing at least 95% certified organic fibers. In addition, this label guarantees that the garment has been made with respect for human dignity and the conventions of the International Labor Organization. Oeko-Tex, on the other hand, is a label that certifies the absence (or very low concentration) of chemical substances considered harmful or undesirable for the planet and for humans. The Fairtrade system ensures that cooperatives of small producers receive a fair and stable price for their products and verifies the protection of the environment as well as the safety of employees. Another solution to reduce your ecological impact is always to favor recycled fibers!
Flax and hemp are interesting crops to favour in the textile industry because they require little water and pesticides. Flax is a plant that grows easily in poor soil. Hemp, on the other hand, has no problems of acclimatization. It is easy to cultivate and can be used in many fields (textile, paper, construction, etc.).
